NEURAL
IMP (SEPTEMBER 2001)
Tokyo,
quite simply, is remarkable. It's inspiring, overwhelming, embracing, kitsch & cool all at
once. Think neons, insane advertising, cheap
cigarettes and
expensive
rice. We've also just weathered our first
typhoon,
and a second is in the works as I write these
very
words - though compared with the cyclones I
experienced
in Queensland in my younger days, these
seem
like very tame tackers! (man, I sound like my grandfather...)
There's a world full of things to entertain
you in
Tokyo - think crazy Japanese drag shows in basements
in
Shinjuku (where they dance kabuki style to Madison
Avenue...
eek...), overwhelming traditional harvest festivals
located
in downtown Shin-Koiwa between monolithic
apartment
blocks, Irish bars full of fucked-up Australian yobs
in
Roppongi... I think
you get the gist.
In the land that gave birth to four
of my favourite
things
- namely sashimi, Asahi, manga and sake -
there're
a lot of contrasts to devour. Fact is, I'm
loving
it. Music-wise, it's downright devasting. I
caught
DJ Fumiya Tanaka at the Liquid Room last week,
and
look forward to Takkyu Ishino in the same venue
this
Friday. Co-Fusion play next week, Bebel Gilberto
the
week after... and Coldcut, Squarepusher, Tricky
and
Luke Vibert hit town five weeks ago as part of the
Wire
01, on tonight (8th September) at Yokohama Arena,
is
billed as Japan's biggest rave. The performers?
Think
Jeff Mills, DJ Hell, CJ Bolland, Monika Kruse,
Fumiya
Tanaka and Westbam (yes, Westbam!) and you
might
get a cheap thrill.
In December the much-touted Tresor
tour
hits Tokyo with names like Subhead, Tobias
Schmidt,
Neil Landstrumm and Si Begg. Hell, even
Destiny's
Child are putting in an appearance next
Venue-wise,
my pick of the crop has to be Bar Aoyama,
near
Shinjuku. It's an unmarked hole in the wall,
sandwiched
between grafitti and bill posters. It's
grungy
and tiny, with a claustrophic low ceiling. I'm
reminded
of a World War II aircraft shelter. But they
squeeze
in some innovative live experimental
electronic
muzak, and you feel like you're sitting on
their
lap-top with them as they perform. It looks like
I
may score my first live Little Nobody set in Tokyo
there
in the next week or so - they seemed to dig
'Action
Hero'. I've also had the opportunity to DJ a
couple
of slots in tiny basements which were a helluva
lot
of fun, and the vinyl here is literally to die for!
And
that's another thing about Tokyo - equipment.
Two
weeks ago was recycling day in my neighbourhood,
and
you know what I found tossed in with all the other
garbage?
A Yamaha SHS-200 keyboard. Not that I was
rifling
around amidst other people's garbage...
Ramon
Laboto (the editor of Melbourne's Play mag) came
to
Tokyo yesterday, and we dragged him out for a
typical
writers' bender that landed us in some obscure
Japanese
sushi bar at 3am where the locals shouted us
to
several bottles of beer (this after beer and wine
at
home), then we got home and polished off a bottle
of
gin between the three of us (ow!) and collapsed at
The
other day we suffered through our first Tokyo
tremour
that shook our entire apartment at 2am! I was
actually
undressed in bed at the time, and the thought
hit
me that I may have to run out onto the street
starkers,
but luckily (for everyone else) it passed.
All
up? I'm amazed still to be here after six weeks,
enjoying
this place - and this week I received the
promo
copies for 'Reaction Hero' from Australia,
a
double-CD
of remixes of Little Nobody stuff by bods
like
Tobias Schmidt, Si Begg, Brixton, Zen Paradox and
Adelaide's Dirty House man Cinnaman. I just wish I
could
play it - it looks fantastic but I still don't
own
a CD player. Six weeks without music. Sheesh!
Well,
gotta go. A typhoon may hit us this weekend. I'm
hoping
for some cheap thrills (heh-heh).
NEURAL IMP (SEPTEMBER 2001) By Andrez Bergen Living in one of the world's biggest cities could be a formidable experience, but in Tokyo
this simply isn't the case; instead it's a place that continues
to enthrall
almost in spite of itself. Crappy and kitsch J-Pop somehow intermingles
with mind-bending experimental
electronica, and one without the other wouldn't quite be the same. God knows why. I
went to Kamakura last week, a place that reeks of Japanese history
yet it's only an hour from the heart of Tokyo.
Think literally dozens of serene Zen Buddhist temples, a lush rainforest setting, a proliferation
of dive-bombing dragonflies and butterflies... and a 30 metre tall bronze Buddha statue weighing in at 121 tons
that'd give Godzilla a run for his money. Built 800 years ago, it's survived a tsunami - not to mention
literally thousands of tourists clambering all over it. While I was there kids with Walkmans listened to
blaring pop anthems just as chanting monks passed by, and neither seemed effected by the other. That's Tokyo all over. This city is also a hive of activity, both
in the local
scene and in the internationals it attracts. Last Sunday British DJ/producer
Oliver Ho fronted up at
Maniac Love and was ably supported by local deckmeister DJ Shufflemaster
(Tresor), while Ken Ishii and Hiroshi Watanabe rocked Zan's 3rd anniversary party
on the same night. The week before, South American chanteuse Bebel Gilberto shifted the Blue Note,
and Fumiya Tanaka's Torema imprint celebrated its own birthday with input from Steve Bicknell. Tanaka
in fact remains one of the more prolific locals. He plays every week, and his most recent album 'Unknown
Possibility Vol.2' (released in Japan
through Dream
Machine) was licensed internationally to Tresor just
a few months back. The other regular DJs who continue to push the perimeters are Shufflemaster, Takkyu
Ishino and DJ Wada from Co-Fusion. Lesser known bods, who are no less talented, include Hutch, Funk Armour,
Rev (Ing Records) and Mayuri. Mayuri also happens to be the girlfriend of one of the guys, Phil, from
British outfit Subhead - and Phil has now settled down in Yokohama. Subhead
will be headlining the much-touted Tresor tour of Tokyo
in December, a tour which is rumoured to feature people like Tobias Schmidt, Si
Begg, Neil Landstrumm
and Cristian Vogel. Record
shopping isn't easy - it never is when you arrive in a new city and
you don't know the right shops or the right places - and Tokyo is one of the biggest cities around. But there are places
in Shibuya, Kanda and Ochanomizu that sell cutting edge techno, drum'n'bass
and electronica, and the range is staggering. Think Fumiya Tanaka, Jeff Mills,
Squarepusher,
Dillinja, Subhead, Cristian Vogel, David Shea, 310, Captain Funk, Susumu Yokota...
hell, you can
find Coldcut and Takkyu Ishino in HMV. And
the fact is that the everyday sounds of Tokyo are a sampler's
delight. TV is one thing; the outside world is another. There's so much here,
all of it intermingled,
yet all the disparate sounds never seem to have an aural clash. Even each station
has its own quirkily
kitsch melody as trains arrive or depart. Strange
episode of the month was record shopping in Shibuya last week - I picked up DJ HMC's classic 'LSD' record
second-hand for a measly 100 yen. Go figure.
...and so on, and so on, and so on. Seven years of that kind'a bollocks? Sheesh.
Andrez tries to be cool, but is actually quite stoned, in this over-abused snap...
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